Region: Andalucia
Province: Jaén
Declared a Natural Park: 1989
Park surface area: 19,961 hectares Points of interest: There are three peaks over 2000m within the park, the highest is Mágina which stands at 2,165m and dominates the limestone terrain. It is a part of the Cordillera Subbetica range and along with other mountains in the area has a selection of highly specialized plants that are endemic to the park. The exposed rocky peaks, vertical cliffs, shaded woodland, river banks and extensive Olive and Almond groves each offer a different habitat.
The “Pinar de Cánavas” is a natural monument south of Jimena. It is a small wood of exceptionally large, centennial Aleppo pines (Pinus halepensis).
The sierra contains many limestone caves, several of which are open to visitors. Neolithic cave paintings and Paleolithic tools date back to the 4th and 3rd century BC. Flora:
Shrub cover on the steep slopes consists of Kermes oak (Quercus coccifera), Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), Small-flowered gorse (Ulex parviflorus), Turpentine tree (Pistacia terebinthus) and Spanish barberry (Berberis hispanica).
The lower slopes have Holms oak (Quercus rotundifolia) and Cork oak (Q. suber) Wild cherry (Prunus avium), Juniper, Rosemary and Montpellier Maple with Gall oak (Q. faginea) trees in the humid parts. Pinus species have also been planted over large areas.
Native woodland on the lower slopes has been cut down to make way for the cultivation of olive, cherry, fig and almond trees. Fauna:
The mammal most noticeable in the park is the Spanish Ibex with Wild boar, Fox, Genet, Wild cat and Stone marten all being secretive creatures. The Sierra has a wide variety of bat species.
Raptors such as Bonelli's, Short-toed, Golden eagles and Griffon vulture share the high cliffs with Ring ouzels, Red-billed chough, Peregrine falcon, and Kestrel. Among the smaller birds are Northern wheatears, Blue rock thrush, Alpine swift, Crested tit and Bee-eater. Nocturnal birds are Barn, Eagle and Tawny owls. The Golden orioles prefer tall trees along the river banks with Dippers on rocks in the water.
Reptiles of the open scrubland are Ladder snake (Elaphe scalaris), Montpellier snake (Malpolon monspessulanus), Ocellated lizards (Lacerta lepida) and Algerian sand lizard (Psammodromus algirus).
Amphibians include Iberian marsh frog (Rana perezi) Southern midwife toad (Alytes dickhilleni) and Natterjack toad (Bufo calamita). While fish species are represented by Rainbow trout and Barbel with three Iberian endemics Leuciscus pyrenaicus, Cobitis paludica and Iberocypris palaciosi, the latter two are on the endangered list. Also in the area:
Fortified walls, towers and castles in the area date back to when this mountain range was the border between Muslim Granada and Christian Castilla. Albánchez de Mágina village has a castle, Bélmez has a tower and Jimena and Cambil retains their walls. The Moorish hill top fortress in Jódar is the best preserved in Jaen province. Information/Visitors Centers:
Centro de Visitantes is in the Castillo de Jódar Caves:
Cuevas del Aire -Bedmar village, have stalactites and various caverns. You need equipment to visit the caves as the entrance is set high up in a vertical wall. Look out for the Moorish 3m-high wall; the cave entrance is to the right of this.
Cueva de los Esqueletos - Albánchez de Mágina has remains dating from the Paleolithic period. It is named after the skeletons (esqueletos) found in the cave, in a sitting position in a semi circle, together with knives and arrows.
Cuevas del Gato are in the mountainous region south of Bélmez de la Moraleda and have some interesting geological formations. These are for experienced cavers only.
Cueva de la Granja - Jimena has interesting Neolithic cave paintings in red hues, which indicate that there was human settlement here from the 4th to the 3rd centuries BC. It was declared a historic monument in 1924.
Cuevas de Majuelos y Aro in Pegalajar have some impressive stalagmites, stalactites and columns. Archaeologists have found stone axes, flint knives, arrowheads and human remains here dating from the 3rd century BC. They are less than 1km northeast of Pegalajar on the JV3241 to Mancha Real.
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